The Complete Cat Care Guide
Reviewed by Dr. Ameer Hamza, DVM — Companion Animal Veterinarian, Manj Pets & Veterinary Clinic
Cats are simultaneously independent and deeply social animals — capable of entertaining themselves for hours, yet forming powerful attachments to the people they trust. They are also remarkably good at concealing discomfort, which means the owners who understand them best are the ones who keep their cats healthiest. This guide covers every major area of cat care in practical, vet-reviewed detail, whether you are preparing to bring home your first cat or looking to improve care for a cat you already have.
Cat Nutrition and Feeding
Nutrition is the foundation of every aspect of your cat's health. Unlike dogs and humans, cats are obligate carnivores — their bodies are designed specifically to process animal protein, and they cannot synthesise several essential nutrients from plant sources. This means getting their diet right matters more for cats than for almost any other common pet.
What cats must eat. Cats require taurine (an amino acid found only in animal tissue — deficiency causes heart disease and blindness), arachidonic acid (an essential fatty acid cats cannot make from plant precursors), preformed vitamin A (cats cannot convert beta-carotene), and high levels of dietary protein. Dog food and homemade diets without veterinary oversight consistently fail to provide these in the right amounts. Always feed food that states it meets AAFCO (US), FEDIAF (EU/UK), or equivalent nutritional standards for the correct life stage.
Wet versus dry food. Wet food has a moisture content of approximately 75–80%, which is closer to the moisture content of a cat's natural prey diet. Cats evolved to get much of their water from food rather than from a separate water source and often drink insufficiently when eating only dry kibble — a contributing factor to urinary tract disease and kidney problems. Wet food also tends to be higher in protein and lower in carbohydrates than dry food. Dry food is convenient, calorie-dense, and has some dental abrasion benefit, though this is modest compared to dedicated dental products. Many owners feed a combination. The ingredient quality within each format matters more than the format itself — a poor-quality wet food is not automatically better than a high-quality dry food.
Life-stage feeding. Kittens have high energy and protein needs for rapid growth and require kitten-specific food until approximately 12 months. Adult cats need a maintenance formula. Senior cats aged 7 and above often benefit from higher protein (to preserve muscle mass as lean tissue is more easily lost with age), adjusted phosphorus levels (relevant to kidney health), and increased palatability as their sense of smell diminishes. Speak to your vet about the right transition points for your individual cat.
Portion control and weight. Obesity is common in domestic cats, particularly those that are neutered and live indoors. The feeding amounts on food packaging are often overestimates. A better approach is to feed measured amounts based on your cat's target body weight, monitor body condition (you should be able to feel but not visibly see the ribs), and adjust accordingly. Treats should constitute no more than 10% of daily caloric intake. For specific food reviews and comparisons, see the cat food and treats guide.
Hydration. Cats have a low thirst drive and benefit from encouragement to drink. Multiple water sources around the home, placing water bowls away from food (cats instinctively avoid drinking near their prey kill), and using a flowing water fountain all increase voluntary intake. Change water daily and wash bowls at least twice weekly. For cats prone to urinary issues, your vet may recommend wet food as the primary diet specifically to increase moisture intake.
For more detailed cat food guidance, see the complete cat food and treats guide.
Cat Health and Vaccinations
Regular veterinary care — both routine check-ups and vaccination schedules — is the most impactful thing you can do for your cat's long-term health. Cats are experts at masking pain and illness; by the time a problem becomes visible, it is often significantly advanced. Routine examinations allow vets to identify issues before clinical signs appear.
Core vaccines for cats typically include feline herpesvirus type 1 (FHV-1), feline calicivirus (FCV), and feline panleukopenia (FPV) — collectively called the FVRCP or "cat flu and panleukopaenia" combination. Rabies is required in many regions. Non-core vaccines — feline leukaemia virus (FeLV), chlamydia, Bordetella — are recommended based on your cat's lifestyle, particularly for cats with outdoor access or multi-cat household exposure.
Vaccination schedule. Kittens receive their first vaccine at 8–9 weeks, a second at 11–12 weeks, and a booster at 15–16 weeks. A booster is given at 12 months. After that, adult cats receive boosters at 1–3 year intervals depending on the specific vaccine and the cat's lifestyle and risk level. Your vet will advise the appropriate schedule for your cat's specific situation.
Annual health checks allow your vet to examine weight, teeth and gums, coat and skin, eyes, ears, heart and lungs, abdomen, and joints. They also create a documented record of your cat's baseline health that makes future changes easier to detect. Conditions like early kidney disease, hyperthyroidism, dental disease, and heart murmurs can be identified at examination well before the cat shows obvious symptoms. For cats over 7, biannual check-ups significantly improve early detection rates.
Neutering. Unless you are an experienced breeder with specific plans, neutering is strongly recommended. Neutered cats have significantly reduced risks of certain cancers (mammary tumours in females, testicular cancer in males), reproductive infections (pyometra in females), and FIV/FeLV transmission (reduced roaming and fighting in males). The optimal age for neutering is typically 4–6 months, though this varies by vet and region.
Parasite prevention should cover fleas, ticks, and intestinal worms, with treatment frequency depending on your cat's lifestyle and your local environment. Indoor-only cats still require parasite prevention, as fleas can enter homes on clothing and other pets. Speak to your vet about the right product for your cat rather than choosing on cost alone — over-the-counter flea products vary widely in safety and efficacy.
For a week-by-week health monitoring reference, see the cat health checklist.
Cat Behaviour and Body Language
Cats communicate through a rich combination of body posture, tail position, vocalisation, facial expression, and scent marking. Understanding this language correctly is the foundation of a good relationship with your cat and allows you to meet their needs before frustration or anxiety builds.
Signs of a relaxed, content cat include: slow blinking (the "cat kiss" — blinking slowly back is one of the clearest trust signals you can give), a gently waving or upright tail with a slightly curved tip, a loose and relaxed body, lying in an exposed position (belly up is maximum vulnerability and maximum trust), purring, and kneading. When your cat kneads on you — the rhythmic pressing of paws — it is a comfort behaviour rooted in kittenhood that signals deep trust and contentment. Learn more in the full guide to why cats knead.
Signs of stress or anxiety include: hiding, reduced appetite, over-grooming or not grooming, dilated pupils, ears flattened sideways or back, crouched body posture, tail tucked under or lashing rapidly, and increased vocalisation. Stress in cats is often caused by changes in routine, new people or animals, territorial conflict (even with cats outside they can see through windows), or unmet enrichment needs. Identifying and addressing the source of stress promptly prevents it from becoming a chronic health issue — feline stress-related conditions like idiopathic cystitis (FLUTD) are directly triggered by environmental stress.
Common behaviours explained. Headbutting (bunting) is a deliberate scent deposit from glands on the head that marks you as part of the cat's trusted social group — it is a compliment. Staring can mean many things depending on context: affection, hunger, curiosity, or territory. The slow blink from a cat who is staring at you is an invitation to reciprocate trust. Chirping at birds or squirrels at the window is predatory frustration — the involuntary clicking or chattering sound cats make when prey is visible but inaccessible. See the guides to why cats stare, what headbutting means, and why cats chirp at birds for detailed explanations.
Vocalisation. Cats use different vocalisations for different situations and audiences. Meowing is largely reserved for communication with humans — cats rarely meow at each other as adults. Your cat's specific meow vocabulary develops over time as they learn what gets a response from you. Increased night vocalisation can indicate hunger, reproductive behaviour in unneutered cats, cognitive dysfunction in older cats, or pain — see why cats meow at night for causes and solutions.
Cat Grooming at Home
Grooming serves both a health and a bonding function. Regular brushing prevents painful matting in long-haired breeds, reduces hairball formation, gives you the opportunity to notice skin abnormalities or parasites early, and for many cats becomes a trusted part of their daily routine with their owner.
Brushing frequency by coat type. Short-haired cats — Domestic Shorthairs, British Shorthairs, Siamese — need brushing once or twice a week. Long-haired breeds — Persians, Maine Coons, Ragdolls — require daily brushing to prevent matting, particularly behind the ears, under the armpits, and at the base of the tail. These are the areas where mats form first and are most difficult to remove once established. A severe mat cannot be safely brushed out and requires professional grooming or veterinary shaving under sedation.
Tools. A fine-toothed metal comb is effective for most coat types and catches tangles before they become mats. Slicker brushes remove loose hair and distribute skin oils. Deshedding tools like the FURminator reduce seasonal shedding significantly in double-coated breeds. Rubber grooming mitts are accepted more readily by cats that resist brushes — the sensation is closer to petting. For a full comparison see the guide to rubber brushes for cats and cat grooming products by coat type.
Nail trimming should be done every 2–3 weeks for most indoor cats. Cats that spend time outdoors wear their nails down naturally and may need less frequent trimming. Use cat-specific nail clippers and trim only the transparent pointed tip, well clear of the pink quick. In cats with dark nails, work in very small increments. If you cut the quick and it bleeds, styptic powder or a pinch of cornstarch stops the bleeding. Start nail handling from kittenhood if possible — desensitising kittens to having their paws touched makes lifelong nail care much easier.
Dental care. Dental disease affects the majority of cats over 3 years old and is one of the most underestimated welfare issues in domestic cats. Infected gums are painful and allow bacteria to enter the bloodstream, stressing the kidneys and liver over time. Daily toothbrushing with a cat-specific enzymatic toothpaste is the most effective prevention. Introduce it gradually — start by letting the cat lick the toothpaste off your finger before introducing a brush. Dental chews and water additives have modest supporting evidence. Professional dental cleaning under anaesthesia is required when calculus has built up beyond what home care can address.
Litter Training and Litter Box Care
Most cats take to the litter box naturally with no formal training — the instinct to eliminate in a specific substrate and cover the waste is innate. The main causes of litter box avoidance are cleanliness issues, box design problems, health conditions, and stress rather than a failure of training.
Setup rules. The standard recommendation is one litter box per cat plus one extra. Boxes should be placed in quiet, accessible locations away from food and water. Avoid locations where the cat may be startled — next to a washing machine, in a high-traffic corridor — as a single bad experience can cause lasting avoidance. Covered boxes are preferred by some cats for privacy but avoided by others, particularly large cats who find them restrictive. Offer both types initially if you are unsure.
Litter type. Most cats prefer fine-clumping litter with a sandy texture, as it most closely resembles the soil they would use instinctively. Heavily scented litters often deter use — what smells pleasant to humans is overwhelming to a cat's far more sensitive nose. When trying a new litter, transition gradually by mixing it in with the existing litter over 1–2 weeks.
Cleaning frequency. Scoop at least once daily — ideally twice. Cats are fastidious and will often refuse to use a dirty box, leading to elimination in inappropriate locations. Full litter changes depend on litter type and box usage: clumping litters need full replacement every 2–4 weeks; non-clumping litters need changing more frequently. Wash the box with warm water and unscented soap when changing litter — avoid strongly scented cleaners, which deter use.
When litter box avoidance occurs. Any change in litter box habits — going outside the box, straining to urinate, blood in urine, crying in the box — requires a vet visit promptly. These can indicate urinary tract infection, urinary blockage (a life-threatening emergency in male cats), kidney disease, or stress-related idiopathic cystitis. Never assume it is a behavioural issue without ruling out a medical cause first. For a full guide to litter box types and setup, see the cat litter box guide.
Indoor Cat Enrichment and Exercise
Indoor cats live longer and safer lives than outdoor cats, but they depend entirely on their owners to provide the mental and physical stimulation they would otherwise get from their environment. An under-enriched cat becomes bored, anxious, and often develops destructive or obsessive behaviours — excessive grooming, persistent attention-seeking, furniture destruction, and aggression can all trace back to an insufficiently stimulating environment.
Vertical space. Cats are vertical animals — height provides security, territory, and the ability to observe their environment from a position of safety. Cat trees, wall-mounted shelves, and window perches meet this need. A cat that can retreat to a high point when stressed has an important coping mechanism. For indoor cats, the ability to choose their level of involvement in household activity — retreat when they want, participate when they want — is central to psychological wellbeing.
Interactive play. Daily interactive play sessions using wand toys, feather teasers, or laser pointers give indoor cats an outlet for their predatory behaviour. Without this outlet, predatory energy has nowhere to go and often redirects into ambushing owner ankles, excessive vocalisation, or aggression toward other pets. Two sessions of 10–15 minutes per day are typically sufficient for adult cats; kittens need more. Always end play sessions with a "catch" — allowing the cat to actually catch and bite the toy — followed by a food reward, which completes the hunt-catch-eat cycle and prevents post-play frustration. Feather wand toys are particularly effective — see the guide to feather wand toys for recommendations.
Puzzle feeding and foraging. Feeding all meals from a puzzle feeder, a snuffle mat, or hidden small portions around the home makes the cat work for their food in a way that mirrors natural foraging. This provides significant mental stimulation and slows eating simultaneously. Even a simple approach — dividing daily kibble into 4–6 small portions hidden in different locations — dramatically increases activity and engagement in most indoor cats.
Environmental stability. Cats are highly sensitive to change in their physical environment. Moving furniture, introducing new pets or people, or even changes in owner schedule can trigger stress. Providing consistent core resources — sleeping spots, feeding locations, litter boxes, hiding places — gives cats predictability in an otherwise changing environment. Pheromone diffusers (Feliway) can help bridge disruptive transitions. For a full exercise and enrichment routine, see the guide to indoor cat exercise.
Common Cat Health Problems
Knowing which conditions are most likely to affect your cat — and their early signs — allows prompt action when something changes. Cats typically hide illness until it is advanced; regular monitoring creates a baseline that makes changes easier to spot.
Kidney disease (chronic kidney disease / CKD) is the leading cause of death in older cats. The kidneys lose function gradually over years; by the time clinical signs appear (increased thirst and urination, weight loss, lethargy, reduced appetite, vomiting), significant kidney function has already been lost. Regular blood and urine testing from age 7 allows early detection when management is most effective. Diet is central to management — phosphorus restriction and high-quality protein are key. SDMA testing is more sensitive than traditional creatinine for early detection and is now offered by most practices.
Hyperthyroidism is the most common endocrine disorder in older cats, caused by a benign tumour of the thyroid gland producing excess thyroid hormone. Signs include weight loss despite a ravenous appetite, increased activity and vocalisation, vomiting, and poor coat condition. It is highly treatable with daily medication (methimazole/carbimazole), radioactive iodine therapy, surgical removal, or a specialised prescription diet (Hill's y/d). Untreated, it causes heart and kidney failure.
Dental disease affects the majority of cats over 3 years old and is frequently undertreated because it is difficult to assess without examination. Signs include bad breath, dropping food, reduced appetite, pawing at the mouth, and excessive drooling. Regular dental checks and professional cleanings under anaesthesia are the primary treatment. Prevention through daily toothbrushing significantly reduces progression.
Obesity shortens lifespan, worsens joint disease, and predisposes cats to diabetes. Indoor, neutered cats are most at risk. Weight loss in cats requires gradual caloric reduction — rapid weight loss in cats causes hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver disease), which is life-threatening. Any weight loss programme should be supervised by a vet with a defined target weight and timeline.
Lower urinary tract disease (FLUTD) encompasses urinary infections, crystals, blockages, and idiopathic cystitis — the most common form, which has no structural cause and is directly triggered by stress. Male cats are at particular risk of urinary blockage, which prevents urination entirely and becomes fatal within 24–48 hours. Signs of blockage include frequent squatting with no urine produced, crying, lethargy, and hiding. This is a veterinary emergency.
Emergency signs requiring immediate veterinary attention include: difficulty breathing; suspected urinary blockage (straining with no urine); collapse or extreme weakness; seizures; suspected poisoning (lilies are particularly toxic to cats — ingesting even a small amount of any part of a lily plant can cause fatal kidney failure); severe or persistent vomiting; and any significant unexplained behavioural change in an older cat. When in doubt, call your vet.
For a full guide to weekly health monitoring, see the cat health checklist.
Choosing the Right Vet for Your Cat
A good relationship with a veterinarian you trust is one of the most important investments you can make in your cat's wellbeing. Establish this relationship before an emergency arises, and use routine appointments to build communication so that urgent situations are handled by a vet who already knows your cat.
What to look for. Clear communication — your vet should explain diagnoses and treatment options in terms you can understand. Transparent pricing — you should receive estimates before procedures. A willingness to take questions seriously and answer without making you feel rushed. A practice that handles cats respectfully — many cats are extremely stressed by veterinary visits, and a practice that uses low-stress handling techniques (minimal restraint, quiet environments, cat-only waiting areas where available) makes visits significantly less traumatic for both cat and owner.
Cat-friendly certification. The International Society of Feline Medicine (ISFM) awards Cat Friendly Clinic status to practices that meet standards for feline-specific handling, environment, and staff training. Seeking out an ISFM-certified practice or one that specifically advertises cat-friendly approaches is worth the effort for cats prone to veterinary stress.
Carrier training. One of the most practical things you can do to reduce vet visit stress is to make the carrier a normal part of your cat's home rather than something that only appears before a stressful event. Leave it out permanently with a familiar blanket inside, feed small treats inside it, and cover it with a pheromone-sprayed cloth during transport. Cats with positive carrier associations are significantly calmer at the vet. For carrier selection, see the cat carrier guide.
Pet insurance. A single serious illness or injury — a foreign body obstruction, a blocked bladder, a cancer diagnosis — can easily cost several thousand pounds or dollars. Insurance taken out before any conditions develop avoids pre-existing exclusions. Read terms carefully: annual payout limits, per-condition limits, and lifetime versus annual policies have very different financial implications over a cat's lifespan.
First-Time Cat Owner Essentials
The first week with a new cat sets the foundation for every aspect of the relationship. Rushing the settling-in process, overwhelming the cat with attention, or failing to set up the environment correctly are the most common mistakes that make the first weeks unnecessarily difficult for both cat and owner.
Before the cat arrives. Designate one quiet room as the initial space — a bathroom, a spare bedroom, or any room where the cat can be alone. This gives them a manageable territory to establish before being exposed to the full house. Set up a litter box, food and water (with the bowls separated and away from the box), at least one hiding spot (a cardboard box works perfectly), and a scratcher. Remove potential hazards: toxic houseplants (lilies, sago palms, poinsettias), open windows, cords that can be chewed, and small objects that could be swallowed.
The first 48 hours. Allow the cat to approach you rather than trying to interact immediately. Sit quietly in the room, let the cat investigate at their own pace, and offer a treat from an extended hand when they are ready. Do not force contact — a cat that chooses to approach voluntarily is forming a positive association; a cat that is picked up before it is ready is learning that you are unpredictable. Most cats take 2–7 days before becoming comfortable enough to explore freely; shy rescue cats may take several weeks.
Essentials checklist. Quality wet food appropriate for age, fresh water in a separate location from food, litter box (plus extra litter), a scratching post tall enough for full stretch, a carrier for vet visits, and a safe hiding spot are the non-negotiables. A cat tree or elevated space, interactive toys, puzzle feeders, and a pheromone diffuser are highly recommended additions. For a complete week-one guide, see the first-time cat owner guide and the cat ownership 101 guide.
Frequently Asked Questions About Cat Care
How often should I take my cat to the vet?
Adult cats in good health should have an annual check-up. Kittens need more frequent visits — at 8, 12, and 16 weeks for vaccinations. Senior cats over 7 benefit from biannual checks. Contact your vet promptly for any changes in appetite, drinking, litter box habits, weight, or behaviour.
What should I feed my cat?
Cats are obligate carnivores requiring named meat protein, taurine, and adequate moisture. Wet food is generally preferable to dry for hydration. Choose food that meets AAFCO or FEDIAF nutritional standards for your cat's life stage. Keep treats to under 10% of daily calories.
How do I stop my cat scratching furniture?
Provide tall sisal or cardboard scratching posts near targeted furniture. Reward use of the post immediately with treats. Double-sided tape on furniture deters use during habit transfer. Scratching cannot be eliminated — only redirected to appropriate surfaces.
Is it better to keep cats indoors or outside?
Indoor cats live significantly longer — 12–18 years versus 2–5 for free-roaming cats. Provide adequate enrichment: climbing structures, interactive play, puzzle feeders, and window access. A secure outdoor enclosure (catio) offers environmental stimulation without the main outdoor risks.
When should I be concerned about my cat's behaviour?
Sudden behaviour changes are almost always medically significant. Contact your vet if your cat stops eating for 24 hours, drinks significantly more or less, strains to urinate (emergency in male cats), becomes suddenly aggressive or withdrawn, loses weight unexpectedly, or vomits more than once or twice a week.
All content in this guide has been reviewed by Dr. Ameer Hamza, DVM, a companion animal veterinarian specialising in cats and dogs. For more information see our veterinary review policy.
This guide covers the foundations of cat care. For specific topics, explore the full library in the cat care hub, where every guide is reviewed by a qualified veterinarian.
Disclaimer: This guide is for educational purposes only. Always consult a qualified veterinarian for medical advice specific to your cat's health, age, and breed.